BLANKbottle Master of None is one of those wines that makes considerably more sense once you stop trying to put it into a conventional box. Technically it is a red, but only just: Grenache, Cinsault and Pinot Noir form the juicy red-fruited backbone, while an ever-changing collection of white varieties brings perfume, freshness and an unexpectedly supple mid-palate. Strawberry, raspberry and sour cherry meet pomegranate, rosehip and blackcurrant leaf, with earthy, herbal and gently spicy notes underneath. The reds are fermented partly as whole bunches before ageing in old French oak, while the white grapes are whole-bunch pressed and fermented separately in vessels including oak, amphora and concrete. Everything is eventually blended together to create a light, highly aromatic red designed to be served chilled. It has the effortless drinkability of Beaujolais, but its blend of regions, colours and grape varieties makes it unmistakably a Pieter Walser creation: unconventional, playful and far more complex than its easy-going personality initially suggests.

BLANKbottle Master of None, Producer

BLANKbottle is the creation of Pieter Walser, one of South Africa’s most unconventional winemakers. Rather than building a range around a single estate, region or grape variety, Pieter works with growers across the Western Cape, sourcing small parcels from vineyards that interest him and turning them into wines built around stories, places and personalities.

The philosophy behind BLANKbottle dates back to 2004. A customer approached Pieter asking for anything except Shiraz. He poured her an unlabelled wine, she loved it and bought three cases – only to discover that it was, in fact, Shiraz. It convinced him that grape names and labels often influence what people think they like before they have even tasted the wine. BLANKbottle was created around the idea of removing those preconceptions.

That philosophy explains why the front labels generally do not advertise grape varieties. Instead, Pieter asks people to taste first and discover the story afterwards. Each label is also designed by Pieter himself using methods including lino cuts, drawings, stencils and woodcuts, meaning the visual identity is as individual as the wine inside.

He does not own vineyards, which gives him the freedom to work across a remarkable variety of regions, soils and grapes. Rather than specialising in one corner of South Africa, BLANKbottle deliberately embraces exploration – something Master of None celebrates more openly than perhaps any other wine in the range.

BLANKbottle Master of None, Terroir & Winemaking

Master of None is not intended to express one vineyard. Its character comes from bringing together grapes from numerous sites across the Western Cape.

The exact blend changes from release to release, which is fundamental to the wine rather than an inconvenience. Recent versions have included Grenache Noir, Cinsault, Pinot Noir and a remarkably broad collection of white varieties including Palomino, Fernão Pires, Verdelho, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc and Chardonnay.

Those grapes can come from areas including Wellington, Piekenierskloof, Breedekloof, Stellenbosch, Swartland and Elgin. Rather than attempting to disguise those differences, Pieter uses them to construct the finished wine: Grenache provides juicy red fruit, Cinsault brings delicacy and perfume, Pinot Noir adds freshness, while the white varieties give the middle of the palate lift and texture.

The red grapes are harvested at optimal ripeness and chilled overnight to around 4°C. The following morning they are partly destemmed, with another portion retained as whole bunches, before spontaneous fermentation in open-top fermenters.

They remain on their skins for approximately three weeks before being pressed into older French-oak barrels.

The white grapes follow a very different route. They are whole-bunch pressed without additions and undergo spontaneous fermentation, with recent releases using a combination of French oak, amphora and concrete. The wines spend around ten months on their lees before the individual white and red components are finally brought together and bottled.

It sounds chaotic on paper, but that is almost the point. Rather than tasting like eleven different grape varieties competing for attention, the finished wine feels remarkably coherent – light, juicy, aromatic and enormously drinkable.

BLANKbottle Master of None, Tasting Notes

Bright, translucent ruby rather than deep purple, immediately signalling the lighter style to come.

The nose is wonderfully energetic, with strawberry, raspberry and red cherry joined by pomegranate and rosehip. Behind the fruit are more savoury notes of blackcurrant leaf, dried herbs and earth, together with delicate floral and peppery tones.

The palate is light to medium-bodied and exceptionally juicy. Fresh strawberry and cherry dominate initially, but there is an unusual breadth through the middle of the palate that comes from the white varieties in the blend.

The tannins are extremely gentle, while lively acidity makes the wine feel almost thirst-quenching. Whole-bunch fermentation introduces subtle herbal and earthy complexity without interfering with the bright fruit.

Served cool, those characteristics become even more pronounced: crunchy red fruit, refreshing acidity and a delicate savoury edge combine into something that sits somewhere between a light Rhône blend, Cinsault and Beaujolais while never quite resembling any of them.

It is deliberately fun, but not simplistic. Decanter described an earlier release as delicate and ethereal, highlighting rosehip, rhubarb and strawberry and specifically recommending it slightly chilled.

BLANKbottle Master of None, Food Pairing Suggestions: Sticky Harissa Pork Skewers with Pomegranate, Herb Couscous and Yoghurt