Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay is one of the most distinctive and compelling Chardonnays produced in South America. Coming from a tiny 2.2-hectare parcel within the extraordinary Adrianna Vineyard in Gualtallary, it is defined by intensely calcareous soils containing limestone and fossilised remains from an ancient riverbed. The result is a wine of remarkable tension and individuality: lime, green apple and white peach sit alongside chamomile, herbs, ginger and white flowers, while a pronounced chalky, saline character runs from the first sip to the long, mouthwatering finish. The 2023 is particularly energetic, combining a gently creamy texture with piercing acidity and an almost austere mineral grip. Biological ageing and extended maturation in seasoned French oak add complexity without disguising the vineyard. This is not a rich, buttery style of Chardonnay; it is precise, herbal, savoury and intensely mineral, with the structure to develop beautifully in bottle for well over a decade.

Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay, Producer

Catena Zapata has played a central role in establishing Argentina as a serious fine-wine country. The family story began in 1902 when Italian immigrant Nicola Catena planted his first vineyard in Mendoza. Over the following generations the family gradually moved away from volume production towards increasingly ambitious, vineyard-focused wines.

The decisive figure in that transformation was Nicolás Catena Zapata. During the 1980s, after spending time in California, he became convinced that Argentina could produce wines capable of competing with the finest examples from Europe and the United States. His belief was that altitude would be crucial, leading him further and further into the foothills of the Andes.

That search resulted in the planting of Adrianna Vineyard in Gualtallary in 1992. At close to 1,500 metres above sea level, the location was considered extremely marginal at the time. Many believed grapes simply would not ripen successfully at such altitude.

Instead, the vineyard became one of the defining sites of modern Argentine wine. Intense high-altitude sunlight allows grapes to develop flavour while dramatically cool nights slow ripening and retain natural acidity.

Today, fourth-generation Dr Laura Catena works alongside winemaker Alejandro Vigil, while the Catena Institute of Wine researches the relationship between vineyard soils, climate, microorganisms and wine character. The result has been an increasingly detailed approach to Adrianna, with tiny individual parcels such as White Bones, White Stones and River bottled separately rather than blended together.

Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay 2023, Terroir & Winemaking

White Bones comes from selected rows within Block 1 of the Adrianna Vineyard in Gualtallary, Tupungato Alto, in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. The parcel measures only 2.2 hectares and sits at approximately 1,450 metres above sea level.

Its name describes what lies beneath the vines. The soils are alluvial and exceptionally calcareous, containing limestone deposits together with fossilised animal remains left behind by an ancient river that once passed through the area.

These soils are poor in nutrients and naturally restrict vine vigour. The calcium-rich layers also influence how easily the roots penetrate the ground and have become closely associated with the distinctive chalky texture and mineral character found in White Bones.

Altitude plays an equally important role. Summer nights can fall to only a few degrees above freezing, creating a day-to-night temperature difference of around 15–20°C. At the same time, the vines receive unusually intense sunlight because of their elevation. This combination allows Chardonnay to develop flavour and concentration while preserving exceptionally high levels of acidity.

The winemaking is deliberately designed to protect that character. After pressing, the juice undergoes cold settling for approximately 10–24 hours at temperatures below 6°C. Fermentation is slow, generally lasting around 45–95 days.

Wild yeasts are used, and the wine then undergoes what Catena describes as biological ageing. Maturation lasts approximately 12–16 months in French oak, using second-, third- and fourth-use barrels rather than strongly flavoured new oak. The producer also references 500-litre vessels in the technical information.

This biological ageing is an especially important part of White Bones’ identity. Critical tasting reports describe some of the wine developing beneath a veil of flor-like yeast, introducing herbal, nutty and savoury complexity alongside its naturally intense mineral profile. The finished wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay 2023, Tasting Notes

Pale straw-gold with green highlights. The nose is intensely aromatic but quite unlike conventional Chardonnay. Lime and citrus peel are joined by green apple and white peach, followed by chamomile, white flowers, fresh herbs and hints of dill, mint and green ginger.

With air, the wine becomes increasingly complex. Subtle nutty and dried-spice notes appear alongside crushed limestone, chalk and a distinctive saline quality.

The palate is wonderfully focused. There is a gentle creaminess through the centre, but it is immediately countered by extremely vivid acidity and fine, chalky grip. Green apple, citrus and white stone fruit are joined by savoury herbs and a pronounced mineral tension.

The finish is exceptionally long and dry, with lime, herbs, salt and crushed stone lingering well after the fruit has faded.

Compared with some earlier White Bones vintages, critics have particularly noted the leaner and more energetic personality of 2023. Vinous highlighted its green apple, mint, chamomile and chalky grip, while Wine Advocate emphasised the combination of citrus, dried spice, white flowers, fresh herbs and biological-ageing complexity.

Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay 2023, Awards

James Suckling – 99 points

Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay 2023, Food pairing suggestion: Roast Monkfish with Charred Leeks, Dill Butter, Capers and Crushed New Potatoes.

Vintages displayed are for illustration purposes only