Billecart-Salmon Clos St Hilaire 2008

Billecart-Salmon Clos St Hilaire 2008: A Remarkable Single-Vineyard Champagne

Billecart-Salmon Clos St Hilaire 2008 is a Champagne to linger over. Produced from a tiny enclosed vineyard, this rare Blanc de Noirs combines the depth of mature Pinot Noir with wonderfully bright citrus freshness. Rich, intricate and beautifully poised, it is a bottle for a memorable dinner or a celebration where the wine deserves everyone’s attention.

The story begins beside the family home in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, where a garden once provided space for flowers, fruit trees and family games. Recognising its potential, the family planted Pinot Noir here in 1964. The first Clos Saint-Hilaire followed with the 1995 harvest, taking its name from the village’s patron saint. Today, this one-hectare vineyard remains the source of a particularly individual expression of Billecart-Salmon.

The 2008 is made entirely from Pinot Noir, vinified in oak casks, with an extraordinary 194 months of ageing on its lees and in the cellar. That patience brings considerable complexity and a beautifully refined mousse. A dosage of just 2.5g/L keeps the finish dry and focused, allowing the wine’s richness to unfold without losing its energy.

Candied orange and lemon peel mingle with roasted hazelnuts, toffee and dark chocolate, followed by delicate smoky notes. The palate is creamy and concentrated, with pink grapefruit providing a lively thread through layers of fresh bread, violet and liquorice. There is real power here, but also finesse, with fine bubbles and a long, saline finish encouraging another thoughtful sip. If you enjoy Champagne with savoury depth and the presence to accompany a proper meal, this is a particularly compelling bottle.

Billecart-Salmon Clos St Hilaire 2008 Food Pairing Suggestion:

Serve with roast chicken with sage butter and wild mushrooms, allowing the wine’s freshness to balance the buttery richness while its savoury notes complement the mushrooms. Lobster with pink grapefruit makes a more luxurious match, echoing the citrus character and bringing out the sweetness of the shellfish. A Jerusalem artichoke and black truffle tart would also make a delicious vegetarian pairing.

About Billecart-Salmon Clos St Hilaire 2008:

• Production limited to approximately 4,000 bottles, each individually numbered.
• Serve at 12–14°C to appreciate its full aromatic range.

Billecart-Salmon Clos St Hilaire 2008 Awards:

• James Suckling – 99 points