Matawhero Single Vineyard Chardonnay is a generous, beautifully textured expression of Gisborne Chardonnay, combining ripe stone fruit with the variety’s naturally creamy side while retaining enough freshness to keep everything balanced. Peach and ripe melon lead the way, joined by apple, fig and subtle butterscotch notes, with a soft, satin-like texture through the palate. What is particularly interesting is that this richness is achieved without relying on oak: recent releases are fermented cool after spontaneous fermentation begins with indigenous yeast, followed by carefully controlled malolactic fermentation. The result is rounded and creamy rather than woody, allowing the fruit and character of the Hexton Hills vineyard to remain clear. Made from the Mendoza clone grown on deep clay over limestone, this is a lovely example of the fuller style of Chardonnay for which Gisborne has historically been known – ripe and comforting enough for Chardonnay lovers, but fresh enough to avoid feeling heavy.
Matawhero Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Producer
Matawhero is one of the historic names of Gisborne wine, with its roots going back to pioneering grower Bill Irwin, who purchased land at Riverpoint Road in the late 1960s and began importing and propagating grape material at a time when New Zealand’s modern wine industry was still in its infancy. His son Denis returned from winemaking experience in South Africa and Germany and produced the first wines under the Matawhero label in 1975, helping establish the estate’s reputation particularly for Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer. Bill’s work with imported vine material was significant far beyond the family vineyard: Matawhero propagated clones that were subsequently planted by producers across New Zealand, while Denis became one of the personalities who helped introduce New Zealand wines to overseas markets during the 1970s and 1980s.
Richard and Kirsten Searle purchased the vineyard and winery from Denis Irwin in 2008, revitalising the property while keeping its family ownership and historic identity intact. Today Matawhero continues to specialise in the varieties that helped build its reputation, particularly Chardonnay and aromatic whites, while focusing on the distinctive conditions of Tairāwhiti-Gisborne. Dry farming is an important part of the wider estate philosophy, encouraging vines to develop deeper root systems and making use of Gisborne’s naturally warm, sunny growing conditions and available rainfall.
Matawhero Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Terroir & Winemaking
The fruit comes from the Tietjen vineyard in Gisborne’s Hexton Hills, an area also known as the Golden Slopes and selected by Matawhero for its long history of producing high-quality Chardonnay. The vines grow on deep clay soils over a limestone base, providing both water-holding capacity and drainage in Gisborne’s warm climate. The vineyard is planted with the Mendoza clone of Chardonnay, a selection closely associated with some of New Zealand’s most characterful examples of the variety. The vines are trained to two canes to restrict yields and maintain balance, while leaf plucking and removal of lateral growth expose the bunches to sunlight and encourage even ripening.
Once the fruit reaches the desired flavour ripeness, it is machine harvested at night so that it arrives at the winery cool. No antioxidant is added at the initial stage, deliberately allowing Chardonnay’s natural phenolics to oxidise before the grapes are crushed and gently pressed. The juice is cold settled for approximately 36 hours and allowed to begin fermentation spontaneously with indigenous yeast before undergoing cool fermentation to dryness. Malolactic fermentation is then initiated and carefully monitored until the desired balance and creamy character are achieved, at which point the wine is stabilised, filtered and bottled. Importantly, the producer’s technical information for recent releases does not indicate barrel fermentation or oak maturation for this Single Vineyard bottling; the creamy, butterscotch-like character therefore comes principally from ripe fruit, fermentation and malolactic development rather than obvious oak.
Matawhero Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Tasting Notes
Pale straw with golden highlights. The nose is generous and inviting, with ripe melon, yellow peach and apple joined by fig and a subtle butterscotch note. As the wine opens, the fruit becomes increasingly stone-fruited and gently nutty, while the lack of overt oak keeps the aromas clear and approachable.
The palate is rich and rounded, with ripe peach and melon carried by an inherently creamy texture. Malolactic fermentation gives softness through the middle, but the wine remains dry and balanced rather than sweet or overly buttery. There is enough acidity to keep the generous Gisborne fruit fresh, and the finish is smooth, gently savoury and persistent. It is a fuller Chardonnay, but one where texture and ripe fruit do the work rather than heavy oak.
Food pairing suggestion: Creamy Tarragon Chicken with Leeks, Dijon Mustard and Crushed New Potatoes.
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