Palacios Remondo Valdelareina

Palacios Remondo Valdelareina 2023 is an extraordinary new expression of old-vine Garnacha from high on the slopes of Monte Yerga in Rioja Oriental. This inaugural release comes from a tiny parcel near Las Mulgas, close to the Navarra border, where old vines grow at around 650–700 metres on deep red clay and iron-rich soils over limestone. It is noticeably deeper and more voluptuous than Álvaro Palacios’ celebrated Quiñón de Valmira, yet still has the freshness, perfume and almost weightless quality that define his modern vision of Garnacha. Wild strawberry, ripe cherry and redcurrant sit alongside blood orange, pink grapefruit, violet and aromatic herbs, with clove, earth and a distinctive ferrous mineral note underneath. Around 65% whole bunches bring perfume and spice, while the old vines provide serious concentration and finely structured tannins. Only a few thousand bottles were produced, making this one of the rarest additions to the Palacios Remondo range and a fascinating new benchmark for fine Garnacha from Rioja.

Palacios Remondo Valdelareina 2023, Producer

Palacios Remondo is the historic family estate of Álvaro Palacios in Alfaro, Rioja Oriental. The Palacios family has been connected with viticulture in the area for around 150 years, while the modern winery was established by José Palacios Remondo in the mid-20th century. Álvaro returned to the family business around 1999–2000 after establishing his reputation in Priorat, where wines such as L’Ermita had helped transform perceptions of Spanish fine wine. His return brought a fundamental shift in direction: rather than following Rioja’s widespread move towards Tempranillo, Álvaro increasingly focused on Garnacha and the high, rugged vineyards of Monte Yerga.

Today the estate works around 100 hectares on the slopes of Yerga, an unusually dry, Mediterranean-influenced part of Rioja where annual rainfall can be as little as around 360mm. Yet altitude, poor calcareous soils and the influence of surrounding woodland help preserve freshness. Aromas of thyme, fennel, pine, rosemary and oak are part of the natural landscape, and Álvaro’s ambition has increasingly been to translate this landscape into wines that are more fragrant, fluid and site-specific than the richer, heavily oaked style historically associated with Rioja. Valdelareina represents the latest stage of that evolution, joining Quiñón de Valmira at the very top of the Palacios Remondo hierarchy.

Palacios Remondo Valdelareina, Terroir & Winemaking

Valdelareina comes from a very small group of old-vine parcels in the Las Mulgas area high on Monte Yerga, within the municipality of Alfaro. Published sources differ slightly on the precise figures: the vineyard is generally given as around 1.4–1.5 hectares, with elevation reported between approximately 650 and 700 metres, while estimates of vine age range from around 75 to 90 years. What is consistent is the unusual soil profile: deep red clay rich in iron over calcareous bedrock. This is considerably deeper than the extremely shallow soils of Quiñón de Valmira and gives Valdelareina a naturally riper, broader and more powerful expression of Garnacha. The estate had worked with fruit from this area for years before acquiring three small parcels and deciding that the vineyard’s combination of freshness and harmony justified bottling it separately.

The blend is approximately 90% Garnacha with 10% co-planted traditional red and white varieties. Around 65% whole bunches, which contributes clove-like spice, perfume and an additional structural dimension. Fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts, and the wine spends several months maturing in oak before bottling; the first release was bottled in January 2025. The growing season itself was difficult, marked by persistent heat, drought and highly irregular rainfall, but the high vineyards of Yerga retained remarkable vitality. Harvest began on 8 September before being interrupted for around ten days by rain, and the finished Valdelareina manages to capture both sides of the year: ripe, fleshy fruit alongside surprising freshness and energy.

Palacios Remondo Valdelareina 2023, Tasting Notes

Bright but relatively deep ruby for Garnacha, with an immediately seductive perfume of wild strawberry, ripe cherry, raspberry and redcurrant. Blood orange and pink grapefruit bring a beautiful citrus lift, followed by violet, mallow flowers, wild Mediterranean herbs and clove. There is also a subtle earthy, iron-like character that seems particularly connected to the vineyard’s red soils.

The palate is juicy and expansive, with more weight than Quiñón de Valmira but without sacrificing fluidity. Ripe red cherry and darker berry fruit are framed by vibrant acidity and firm yet beautifully fine tannins, while orange peel, spice and a savoury mineral quality appear towards the finish. There is an attractive tension between richness and freshness: the wine feels generous and almost voluptuous through the middle, then tightens into a long, energetic finish. The 2023 already has plenty of charm, but the tannin and concentration suggest considerably more complexity will emerge with bottle age.

Palacios Remondo Valdelareina 2023 Awards

The Wine Advocate – 96 0oints

Palacios Remondo Valdelareina, Food pairing suggestion: Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb with Rioja Jus, Roast Garlic Potatoes and Charred Peppers