Vega Sicilia, Spain’s “first growth” and most prestigious wine estate, is located in Ribera del Duero. It was founded in 1864 by Don Eloy Lecanda y Chaves, who arrived from Bordeaux with cuttings of local grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec) and planted them, together with Spain’s signature grape Tinto Fino (aka Tempranillo) in the arid Ribera soils.
The winery begun building its formidable reputation after 1903 under the ownership of Antonio Herrero, winning a number of awards at home and overseas. The estate changed hands several more times before its acquisition by the current owners, the Álvarez family, in 1982.
The estate’s success is founded on its meticulous approach. In the vineyard it applies low yields, aided by green harvesting and painstaking selection at harvest. In the winery, wines are aged in any number of receptacles – using French and American, new and old oak, small barrels or huge vats – to engender further complexity. Despite prolonged barrel ageing, the fruit is never dried out or overly oaky – compelling evidence of the superb quality of its raw materials.
Valbuena represents the purest expression of Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) at Vega Sicilia. Tinto Fino is the dominant grape in the blend that forms this magnificent wine. Merlot is also included, with its proportion varying depending on the vintage.
The Valbuena Tempranillo is sourced from plots situated on gentle concave slopes that descend from barren areas. These soils consist of material eroded and accumulated as colluvium on the lower slopes, resulting in a high-profile soil with significant development, including the formation of a deep calcic horizon.
Vega Sicilia Valbuena 2018:
The 2018 vintage was fresher and more Atlantic-influenced, with a somewhat higher yield. The winemakers had to be more selective during the harvest, but these conditions imparted a delightful zing and verticality to the wines. For this vintage, they were able to push extraction a bit more and increased the influence of oak during the first year of ageing, particularly with 5% American oak. In the second year, the vats enhanced the complexity of nuances and, most notably, the elegance of the texture.
Vega Sicilia Valbuena 2018 awards:
James Suckling – 96/100
Robert Parker – 96/100
Vega Sicilia Valbuena 2019:
The 2019 vintage was drier compared to previous years, a fact that became apparent during grape tasting in early September. Despite this, the fruit remained very healthy, with well-ripened skins, aided by rainfall at that time. The focus was to achieve freshness without veering into over-ripeness. Winemakers ensured gentle extraction during fermentation and adjusted the ageing process accordingly. The wine was matured in oak vats during the first year to enhance tension, with a shift towards French oak and lighter toasts, reducing the use of American oak. In the second year, the wooden vats contributed to complex nuances and, importantly, textural elegance.
Vega Sicilia Valbuena 2019 awards:
James Suckling – 97/100
Robert Parker – 95/100
Food pairing suggestion: Venison steaks with stroganoff sauce.
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