Ikewen is a wonderfully distinctive red from the mountainous heart of Gran Canaria, where ancient vines grow at extraordinary elevations above the island’s famous sea of clouds. Predominantly Listán Negro, with small amounts of Listán Prieto and traditional local white varieties mixed through the old vineyards, it is light in colour but full of personality. Strawberry, red cherry and redcurrant lead into blood orange, dried flowers, pepper and wild herbs, with a subtle smoky, volcanic character beneath the fruit. Whole-bunch fermentation gives the wine extra perfume and a gently sappy edge, while remarkably fresh acidity keeps everything energetic. Rather than the dense, powerful red you might expect from such a warm island, Ikewen is delicate, lifted and almost ethereal – a fascinating example of how altitude, volcanic soils and very old vines can completely reshape our expectations of Canarian wine.
Bien de Altura Ikewen, Producer
Bien de Altura is the personal project of Carmelo Peña Santana, founded in 2017 with the aim of reviving Gran Canaria’s neglected old vineyards and demonstrating the potential of the island’s high-altitude sites. Rather than concentrating on the warmer traditional vineyards at lower elevation, Carmelo turned his attention to San Mateo in the northeast of Gran Canaria, where steep mountain vineyards sit above 1,100 metres.
Carmelo originally studied chemical engineering before becoming increasingly drawn to wine. He later studied oenology at Rovira i Virgili University in Tarragona and gained experience with some hugely influential names, including Dirk Niepoort in the Douro and Raúl Pérez in Bierzo, before returning to Gran Canaria.
Bien de Altura remains a deliberately small, terroir-focused project. The emphasis is on indigenous varieties, old vines, sensitive farming and minimal intervention in the cellar, with Carmelo describing the philosophy as essentially “bottling the landscapes of Gran Canaria.”
Bien de Altura Ikewen, Terroir & Winemaking
Ikewen is Bien de Altura’s village-level red from San Mateo, produced from extremely high vineyards planted on Gran Canaria’s volcanic landscape. Depending on the parcels and vintage, the vineyards sit roughly between 1,100 and 1,460 metres above sea level, with some vines literally growing above the cloud layer. The altitude creates substantial differences between daytime and night-time temperatures, allowing the grapes to ripen while retaining remarkable freshness.
The old field-blend vineyards are dominated by Listán Negro, accompanied by Listán Prieto and small quantities of indigenous white grapes. The producer describes vines over 80 years old, while individual parcels used in recent vintages have been reported at around 90–120 years. They are traditionally planted on their own roots rather than grafted onto American rootstock – one of the remarkable advantages of the Canary Islands, where phylloxera never became established.
Recent vintages have been fermented with 100% whole bunches and long, gentle macerations of around 30–40 days. Carmelo favours infusion rather than aggressive extraction, allowing colour, flavour and fine tannin to develop slowly. The 2023 vintage was fermented naturally in stainless steel, with around 85% remaining in steel for approximately a year and a small portion matured in older French barrels. It was bottled without fining or filtration.
Bien de Altura Ikewen, Tasting Notes
Light ruby in colour, immediately showing that this is not going to be a heavy Canarian red. The nose is beautifully lifted, with wild strawberry, red cherry and redcurrant joined by blood orange, dried rose petals and subtle pot-pourri.
With a little air, the wine becomes distinctly savoury. White and black pepper, wild herbs and a gentle leafy character appear alongside a smoky, stony mineral note that seems particularly at home in Gran Canaria’s volcanic landscape.
The palate is light to medium-bodied, juicy and remarkably energetic. Crunchy red fruit is carried by vibrant acidity, while whole-bunch fermentation introduces fine tannins and an attractive sappy quality. The finish is long, peppery and mineral, with red cherry and herbs lingering rather than weight or sweetness. Current descriptions of the 2023 vintage particularly highlight its perfumed strawberry and cherry fruit, delicacy and mineral backbone.
Bien de Altura Ikewen, Food pairing suggestion: Canarian-Style Pork with Mojo Rojo and Papas Arrugadas
Did you know?
Ikewen means “origin” in Amazigh, the Berber language of North Africa. Carmelo chose the name for the first wines he produced when Bien de Altura began in 2017, reflecting his desire to reconnect with Gran Canaria’s vineyards and local identity.
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